“The mind is a terrible thing to waste Paul”. That’s not really where I was planning on going with this post. I suppose the voices of teachers and parents past are still ringing in my ears.
Lest I digress, and go down a very painful road, the idea of matter versus mind came to me during several surf sessions of late.
I recently had shaped for me the board in the picture. It is a 6’3″ stinger rocket, modified single fin, channel bottom board. I pride myself on being able to ride almost any shape that comes my way. In my quiver I have a 5’11” performance twin fin, a 6’2″ baked potato fun shape that I shaped myself, a 6’4″ thruster and a 6’8″ high performance thruster for big surf. I also sometimes ride long boards that I borrow for those days when that’s all that really works.
When I set up the fin on the new board, Tony of COS where I work, advised me to set the fin way back so it wouldn’t be too loose. Unfortunately I didn’t listen to Tony as a guy that rides updated single fins said it would work best moved forward and also because I thought I could handle the speed and looseness of it. (mind/matter)
Well, when I dropped in on my first wave and went for a big cutback I obviously couldn’t handle the speed and the board literally shot right out from under me. Yes Tony got in a good “I told you so”, and I have since moved the fin back and am now slowly getting the board wired. I guess it wasn’t named the Stinger Rocket for nothing.
I also detest wearing a full wet suit so I try and wear as little rubber as possible when I feel I can. Fortunately we have had a pretty mild winter with water temps in the low to mid sixties for much of the winter and as such I’ve only worn my full suit a hand full of times.
Unfortunately we had a recent cold spell that brought the temps back down into the upper fifties to low sixties. Despite that knowledge, I decided to paddle out this week in only a light spring suit top. Needless to say, that morning I froze my butt off. I stayed out for about an hour and a half and although I got some good rides, the coldness made my back lock up that evening and It’s just beginning to loosen up now. (matter/mind)
I certainly don’t need to be told that I’m getting older because my body and the mirror keep reminding me of it. At the same time, I’m still committed to doing the things I love like surfing, tennis and snowboarding at as high a level as I possibly can for as long as I can.
I am fairly certain that my ability to do so thus far has a lot to do with my high level of desire and my not willing to let matter win the battle over mind. The sad truth though, is that as time goes on I’m finding that matter seems to want to keep winning the battle and will most likely get the upper hand more and more.
But one thing is for certain, I’m not giving in without a fight and I’ll try to make the most of those times when mind seems to have been able to get the upper hand.
I have always told myself (don’t we all talk to ourselves?) that when I walk out to the beach and am fearful of paddling out, that I will know that matter has finally won and I will walk away from the sport and hope I can live off the many good memories I have of being a part of perhaps the greatest of activities on the planet.
So in closing, all I can say is “catch me if you can matter”. I hope you can also for as long as you can. Take care, have a great week and I hope to see you back here again soon or out in the surf.
P.S. If you haven’t done so yet please check out my new novel “The Waves of Fate” which deals a bit with mind over matter and how we handle loss and diminished abilities. It, and my other books can be found on Amazon and Amazon Kindle. Thanks